South Africa: Shark Bait

At the end of the gaff is a bloody pig’s head. Our boat has pulled up to a shark cage boat, and we are watching the guide bait the sharks. Tourists actually pay money to sit in a submerged cage, while they feed. We have just spent a glorious day watching whales in Herminus, South Africa! 20 pair’s of mother and calf - at the best place; best time for whale watching, in the world. The sharks are an unexpected surprise.

There is a flash of white. And a distinct dorsal fin emerges. The pigs head is hoisted out at just the right moment; there is a quick flash of purposeful white teeth.

There are ohs and ahs all around. I’m a self professed adrenaline junky. I tell my wife I would truly love to try the shark cage. She laughs, “You’re crazy. You’re not getting me, in one of those”.

Zoki, our tour guide, tells us a story about their sister ship. It was hit with a rogue wave last year. 3 people were swept overboard, 2 drowned. “Gee thanks,” says my wife.

One of the sharks breaks from the thrashing. From a small crows nest directly above the water, we watch the shark head toward us. 

At 40 feet, it is a large white streak. At 30, the great white, is distinguishable – head, side fins, dorsal and tail fin. At 20, its size is apparent, this is no puppy. All voices fall silent. The dorsal fin comes up. Someone gasps, “Oh my god.” Everyone on the railing steps back. It passes - silently - beneath us, its tail and head emerging on opposite sides of the boat. My knees go weak and I grab the railing. My wife’s voice quivers - “Holy cramp.” This “fish” - is 2/3 the size of our 50 foot boat. That’s enough adrenaline for today.